The more I learn about wine…the more I explore wine regions and varietals, the more I come to find out there is so much more to learn! And taste! And therein lies the intrigue, mystery and compelling nature…and fun, about wine.
One of the most interesting aspects of “wine”, in the broadest sense of the word, is the concept of “place”, and I don’t just mean terroir, but historical identity that connects people to a region and to that region’s culture, food and agriculture. Many “old world” wine regions are small, some nothing more than large communities, that have existed for generations and, at some point in history, may have been remote or secluded. Their culture was driven by weather and soils and what those influences allowed them to grow and cultivate.
As far as wine production, these small regions often identify with and make wine from one grape varietal, sometimes with a couple of supporting varietals. Often, wine production is a tradition for a family that dates back many generations. They have made wine from the same grape(s), on the same land, sometimes employing traditional methods, sometimes modifying to accommodate changing times, palates, technologies and global influence. But no matter how big the world gets, the people of these regions value “place” and what is historically and indigenously theirs.
Naoussa – Can you say “Xinomavro”?
With 330 grape varieties indigenous to Greece, it is Xinomavro, a robust red grape varietal, that is the star of Naoussa, a tiny wine region 75 kilometers from the ocean in the heart of Western Macedonia – Northern Greece. With the entire area running only 30 miles, end to end, the vineyards are located in the plains and south eastern slopes of Mount Vermion – and that is where this ancient area’s history begins. According to mythology, Mount Vermion was the home of Semele, mother of Dionysus, the god of vine and wine.
Though cultivated for hundreds of years in different areas, it is in Naoussa that Xinomavro is able to reach perfect maturation. Despite the destruction of Naoussa’s vineyards by phylloxera in the 1930’s, area producers remained dedicated to reviving the area. In the 1960’s the vineyards were replanted, and during the 1970’s, along with improvements made in farming, the modern age of wine production for the area began. There are now 20 wineries in Naoussa.
Aging in oak for 12 months helps to soften the considerable tannins that give Xinomavro great structure and ageability. The wines are deep red in color with red fruit characteristics and great acidity, (a comparison to Nebbiolo would be appropriate), making these wines fantastic with the meat and tomato dishes of the area.
Wines of Naoussa to try:
Chrisohoou (oldest winery in Naoussa) – Estate 2008 
Dalamara – Naoussa 2012 – (Kostis Dalamaras is 5th generation of his family to farm at the Dalamara Winery)
Uranos – Thymiopoulos Vineyard – 2011
Ktima Diamantakos – Naoussa 2008
Garganega and the wine region of Soave.
Soave, located just 12 miles east of Verona and whose picturesque castle and rock walls date back to the year 934, is also home to 16,000 acres of Italy’s total 27,200 acres of Garganega. Dating back to the thirteenth century, Garganega is the principal grape of Soave, an area that produces one of Italy’s leading wines – a white wine of place.
There are now almost 100 wineries in the Soave wine region, producing wines that are a far cry from the boring whites you may have seen in your local market. These are wines of character and even ageability. Although the best wines of Soave are generally produced from 100% Garganega, (Italian wine law mandates a labeling minimum of 70%), Trebbiano di Soave (adds tropical notes) and Chardonnay are also used. Almost no oak barrels are used in production – flavor profiles rely heavily on “place”. Depending on the source site, characteristics of wines made from Garganega can include lemon, white peach, lemon thyme, minerality, and almonds. The wines are usually made dry and their crisp acidity allows them to pair beautifully with dishes that feature citrus flavors, seafood, poultry, risotto, paella and pastas with cream or butter sauces. Recioto di Soave is a sweet wine made from dried grapes and is the perfect accompaniment to desserts that include marmalade, figs, marzipan or toffee.
Soave wines to try:
Sandro De Bruno – 2011 Soave Superiore DOCG “Monte San Piero”
Gini – 2007 Soave Classico DOC
Monte Dondo – 2006 Soave Classico DOC “Casette Foscarin”
Franchetto – 2012 Recioto di Soave DOCG “Santin Dulco”
These are just two of the many wine producing regions in the world that are associated with a specific grape varietal. So much more to explore and taste. Meanwhile, I strongly recommend you check your local wine shop for wines from Naoussa and Soave, plan a menu and let your taste buds take you on a trip to a faraway….. “place”.
I’ll Drink to That!